BiggLou55's Lou-ne-Tunes Requests

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BiggLou55's Lou-ne-Tunes Requests

Post by BiggLou55 on Tue Mar 11, 2014 1:41 pm

Don't have access to Microsoft Excel so you can use the Forza Tuning Calculator?  Need a vehicle tuned?  I've got the answer!!!

Introducing the Lou-ne-Tunes Tuning Request Form.  By filling out the form, your vehicle's data will be entered in a list where I can generate a base tune for you.  From there you can tweak it yourself.  Please keep in mind I will not be actually building and tuning the car in FM4.  What I will be doing is taking the data you provide and entering it into the the FTC and providing you with the results (link to an output image).

Notes on your build:

  • If you are Jeremy Clarkson, then just add as much power up to the PI limit and call it a day
  • If not, then you want to pay attention to the car's balance and YOUR skill level and YOUR preference.  Just because some tune without aero or handling bits, doesn't mean that will work for you.  Sure they will be faster, but I've found tuning to your style and strengths means YOU will be the fastest YOU can be.  The second you try to tune and drive in a manner that is not conducive to you, you will fail and get frustrated.  Does that mean you cannot learn?  No it doesn't, but it does mean you will need to learn in baby steps.
  • Set yourself up a PI budget.  If you are taking a stock vehicle that is low A-class to A-600, you budget is small (tires to the next type suspension, brakes and maybe some rims, tires and some aero)...  If you are taking a vehicle from a stock C-class to S-class, the sky is pretty much the limit for non-conversion changes (but you might be able still do an engine swap or aspiration upgrade).
  • Conversions: Start with drivetrain and engine conversions first.  This will help with your budget.  Aspiration can come later once you get to engine upgrades.
  • Start with suspension and transmission.  I go with brakes, shocks, ARB, stiffening and weight redux first (which redux depends on PI budget).  And going with Race Clutch, Axle and Diff but choosing the transmission based on PI budget (I don't do manual w/ clutch, so shit speed is VERY important to me).
  • Next go to Tires and rims.  Depending on your budget dictates what you can do here...
  • Next Aero if you so choose, but at least use a light-weight hood if available and not fuggly...
  • Next is Engine...  I start with Flywheel, Air Cleaner, Exhaust and intake.  Why?  Because they not only increase power, but they reduce weight.  then it's Valves and Pistons (cause they reduce weight too).  Then it's all the other parts, but I try to avoid parts that increase more weight than HP...  If it adds 50 lbs, but only adds 2 hp (25 lbs/hp), it's not worth it.  If it adds 20 lbs, but adds 5 HP (4 lbs/hp), it might be.
  • Your ultimate goal is to end up with a balanced car.  Good handling, good acceleration, good speed.  What you want to avoid is too much of any 1 thing.  Just like Physics, increasing one performance stat will reduce another (at the PI limit that is).


If you submit a form, please reply to this thread so I can address it as soon as possible.

Sample Output:



Some of the items that you'd want to adjust to your preference would be the Braking force, the Differential settings, and the downforce (if race aero installed).  All three of those affect the car's behavior based on your driving style.

Notes on Braking force:

  • Make sure to not mess with the balance unless the fronts are locking up before the rears (or vice versa).  
  • I like to adjust the braking force so that it's almost a full trigger pull (or pedal depress) before the brakes lock up...  It's going to be different for each car.


Notes on Differential:  

  • For RWD cars, I actually prefer MUCH lower numbers.  For the ZL1, I have my Accel set to 28% and decel set to 26%.  It allows me to get on the gas earlier out of corners.  This is something you will want to play with on your own.  Find the sweet spot with each car.
  • For FWD cars, I go even lower than RWD.  It helps with understeer on corner exit under acceleration.  But you need to figure all of that out for your style.
  • For AWD cars, I like to keep at least 60-80% to the rear wheels, and I will go with ~50% Accel (but keep ~25% decel) if I want to allow for throttle oversteer.  I will keep the front Accel/Decel in line with my FWD tunes.  Again, it's something to work out for yourself.  Figure out what you prefer and stick with it.


Note on Downforce:  

  • Aero parts do not factor into the tune except for how it changes the weight of the car (a few pounds/kg), so it's not critical to the the output tune.
  • Downforce is VERY personal.  Some never add it, some never go anywhere without it, and some use it when needed.  I use it when needed (but I lean towards using it too much LOL).
  • Keep in mind that race aero will reduce top speed and acceleration above ~70mph (~120kph).  Even if you have the aero set to the lowest setting, it will increase drag.
  • On tracks with longer straights and less turning, try setting aero to minimum or removing it altogether (like Road Atlanta or Le Mans).
  • For tracks that have tighter high speed turns and not many straights (not a lot of time spent above 120mph), try increasing aero (like Infineon, Leguna Seca, or Maple Valley)


Notes on Tires and Rims:

  • Rim size (diameter) will affect your final drive but it will also add weight to the car.  I try not to go less than 45/40% on the tire profile unless it's less than that stock.  Why?  Because tire volume affects tire heat.  The less air in the tire, the fast it will heat up and the slower it will cool down.  Go too low on the profile and the tires will get too hot too fast with no way to cool them down (even tire pressure won't help).  So...  It's not so much the rim size that you need to think about, but the tire profile.  You'll never see a race car running 30 series tires.  Most are running between 40-55% profiles.  Even F1.
  • For tire width, I like to keep in mind what power increases I'm making with the build. If I am only adding an Air Filter and an Exhaust, I may only go up 1 or 2 sizes assuming it had decent tire size to begin with.  If I am going all out on power, then I will max the width.
  • I treat tire type like I treat tire width.  I will upgrade this as I upgrade power and handling.  BUT....  I will go to race series tires BEFORE I max out width.  I first upgrade type, and then work with width/size.
  • Tire Pressure is another tricky Item.  FTC always spits out 28.5 PSI.  For heavier cars (3000 lbs+) I find that ~30 PSI works better.  For VERY heavy cars (4000+ lbs) I've found going to ~32 PSI is sometimes in order.  It really all depends on tire temps after 3+ laps.  If the temps are solid green (~175-215 degrees F), then you are good to go.  If the temps are too low, try lowing pressure, but do not go below 28 PSI.  If temps are too high, try adding pressure, but do not go above 34 PSI.  You may want to play with Rim size if temps are too high or low.  larger rims will help add heat faster.  Small rims (Assuming you increased the rims originally) will remove initial and sustained heat.


Cheers and I hope you find this service and my notes helpful...

-Lou
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BiggLou55
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Posts : 4308
Join date : 2012-03-02
Age : 45
Location : Nashville, TN - USA

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